Birding report for January 2007. Courtesy of John Butler

Donana Bird Tours.

17th - 21st January 2007.

This trip report covers four nights and days at the Casa Rosa in Portugal, which was a part of a seven day birding tour which also included 3 days in Donana.

My clients for this tour were Dave and Mary Braddock and Ray and Lyn Wilson, who are all members of the North-west Surrey RSPB group.

17th January.

Today, Dave, Mary, Ray and Lyn were joined by Rebecca, my wife, and we made our way to Portugal via some of the best birding areas to the west of the Doñana region. Our first stop was at the El Acebuche visitors centre, to try and get photos of the Iberian Magpies at the picnic area. On arrival, there was not a bird to be seen, but I began to scatter biscuit crumbs on the ground and within minutes there were over 40 Iberian and 5 Black-billed Magpies present, feeding within a few metres of us. A few Chaffinches and House Sparrows joined in the feeding and a pair of Great Tits were also seen.

We then drove to the Laguna Primera de Palos, looking for ducks and other waterbirds. There were Gadwalls, Mallards, Teal, Shovelers, Common Pochards, Coots, Moorhens and Cormorants on the water whilst in the reeds we saw Little Egrets, Purple Swamp-hens, Grey Herons, 5 Squacco Herons and White Storks. Chiffchaffs, Zitting Cisticolas and a Kestrel rounded off the birds at this site.

The Estero Domingo Rubio was very quiet and we only managed to add Black-winged Stilts, Common Snipe and White Storks to the day list.

The tide was just receeding at La Rábida and we managed to find Whimbrels, Curlews, Common Sandpipers, Turnstones, Redshanks and Ringed Plovers feeding on the exposed mud banks.

After a meal at a local restaurant, we drove to the Odiel Marshes. Our first stop here was at two small lagoons at La Calatilla, where 3 Red-knobbed Coots were the main atracción, but there were also Dunlins, Greenshanks, Little Grebes and White Wagtails.

Further along the marshes we found Greater Flamingos, Spoonbills, Grey Plovers, Kentish Plovers, Sanderlings, Black-necked Grebes, Sandwich Terns and Audouin´s Gulls. The three other common gulls, the Yellow-legged, the Black-headed and the Lesser Blackback were also seen.

18th January.

After an excellent evening meal the night before and a very filling breakfast, courtesy of Hanny, we set off early in the morning for the river and marshes just along the eastern edge of Fuseta, only a 10 minute drive from the Casa Rosa. It was almost low-tide and there were a good number of waders and gulls feeding fairly close by. In 40 minutes, we saw Redshanks, Greenshanks, Ringed, Kentish and Grey Plovers, Dunlins, Sanderlings, Common Sandpipers, Turnstones, Black-headed and Yellow-legged Gulls, Sardinian Warblers, Black Redstarts, Robins, Chiffchaffs, Goldfinches, Stonechats and 2 Caspian Terns.

At 9am, we went to the Ría Formosa Natural Park. At the salinas and along the bank of the river there were Bar-tailed Godwits, Whimbrels, Curlews, Oystercatchers and all of the other waders previously mentioned. Several pairs of White Storks were on their nests and a small group of Common Waxbills were seen in the reed-beds of a small pond. Iberian Magpies were plentiful throughout the park, along with a few of the Black-billed Magpies.

There were many Crested Larks present and at the tidal lagoon beside the ancient tide-mill we added a group of 13 Black-tailed Godwits. From the roof of the mill, we saw 5 Mediterranean Gulls and a number of Sandwich Terns.

From a bird hide overlooking a fresh water lagoon we saw Purple Swamp-hens, Grey Herons, Gadwalls, Shovelers, Wigeon, Little Egrets, Cattle Egrets, Little Grebes, Sardinian Warblers, Zitting Cisticolas, Serins and Greenfinches. A lone Griffon Vulture and two Buzzards circled lazily overhead.

After a great picnic lunch, again supplied by Hanny, we headed back to Fuseta, this time visiting the old salinas to the east of the town. Here there were Greater Flamingos, Spoonbills, Black-winged Stilts, Black-tailed Godwits, Redshanks, Greenshanks, Common Sandpipers, Turnstones, Avocets, Pintails, Teal, Kentish Plovers, Little Stints, a Temminck´s Stint, Sanderlings, Dunlins, a Peregrine Falcon, Marsh Harriers and a Little Tern.

We returned to the Casa Rosa at 16.30hrs to try to find a Barn Owl that Hanny had given us directions to. We failed with the Barn Owl, but had better luck with a Little Owl and a pair of Hoopoes.

19th January.

After an early breakfast, we sat on the terrace of the Casa Rosa, watching and photographing Blackcaps, Sardinian Warblers and Chiffchaffs feeding in the flowering Aloe Vera plants. A Hoopoe put in an appearance and was duly “snapped”.

We then set of for Quinta do Largo and the Lago de Sáo Laurenco. After parking the vehicle, we walked along the exposed mudflats of the Ría Formosa, dodging errant golf balls from the nearby fairways. On the mudflats there were both Black and Bar-tailed Godwits, Curlews, Whimbrels, Oystercatchers, Dunlins, Turnstones, Redshanks, Greenshanks and Kentish, Ringed and Grey Plovers. A mixed flock of gulls were resting on a muddy island and careful scanning revealed an Audouin´s Gulls and several Sandwich Terns. A Kingfisher flashed by and we were then treated to 10 minutes of a Caspian Tern fishing just 40 metres away.

The Lago de Sáo Laurenco was full of water and birds and we recorded a dozen or so Purple Swamp-hens, Little and Great Crested Grebes, Little Egrets, Wigeon, Pintails, Shovelers, Tufted Ducks and Common Pochards. Close scrutiny of the reeds revealed a good number of Common Snipe, whilst the stone pine forest produced Iberian Magpies, Hoopoes, Black Redstarts, Robins, Sardinian Warblers, Great and Blue Tits and Song Thrushes.

The afternoon involved driving to Cabo de Sáo Vicente, the most western point of mainland Europe, stopping for another of Hanny´s packed lunches on the way.

Just before reaching the cape, I spotted a Blue Rock Thrush perched on an electricity cable and this was eagerly photographed by Ray. On arrival at the cape there seemed to be very little bird activity, but a search of the cliffs and scrubland produced Southern Grey Shrikes, Black Redstarts, Sardinian and Dartford Warblers, Zitting Cisticolas, Song Thrushes, Crested Larks, more Blue Rock Thrushes and a few Thekla Larks. Offshore, several Northern Gannets were seen.

I Spotted a Black Redstart nearby and as I was trying to direct Ray to it, I became aware of a small group of birds feeding close by, in the shadows of the cliff face. It was bad light and my first tour was of Rock Pipits. As they moved around I then thought of Dunnocks. By now, both Ray and Rebecca were on to the birds and as one came in to the light I announced that they were Alpine Accentors. At this point, they all flew off, so we returned to join the other by the vehicle. As we approached, Dave signalled a small group of birds feeding no more than five metres away and whispered “Alpine Accentors”. The birds had flown straight to the car park and produced fantastic photo opportunities for the next 10 minute. Hopefully, Ray, Dave and Mary will be sending copies of their photos and I will be able to post a few at a later date.

We ended the day at Pêra marshes, but we only had 15 minutes of daylight left, so couldn't appreciate the area properly. However, in the failing light we did manage to see Purple Swamp-hens, Greater Flamingos, Spoonbills, Black-winged Stilts, Sanderlings and several duck species.

20th January.

Our trip today involved driving up to the Alentejo region of Portugal in search of Bustards. We took the A-27/N-122 to Mértola and then turned off to the Pulo do Lobo. On the way we stopped several times to photograph Red-legged Partridges, Southern Grey Shrikes, Lapwings, Corn Buntings, Crested Larks and White Storks. Also seen were Crag Martins, Serins, Black Redstarts, Stonechats, Buzzards and a Little Owl. I had never visited the Pulo do Lobo before but had heard good reports about it. It is a spectacular site for scenery and it seems very promising, but we were obviously there at the wrong time of the year and were disappointed by the lack of birds. The only birds of note were a pair of Rock Buntings, but even these were seen only very briefly.

Returning to the main N-122, we now drove along the road to Castro Verde and after about 30 minutes of searching, Rebecca asked me to stop and look at some shapes in a field, wanting to know if they were just tree stumps or clumps of vegetation. They turned out to be 15 Great Bustards and for the next half-hour we had great views and were able to get photographs. Eventually, the birds decided to move off and we were treated to the sight of these magnificent birds flying along the ridge of a field, before disappearing.

We continued along the road, almost to Castro Verde, seeing more White Storks, Lapwings, Cattle Egrets, partridges, shrikes, larks and Red Kites. With the sun getting coger in the sky, I decided to head back along the road, with the sunlight behind us, hopefully to give us a better chance of spotting any birds in the fields and on the plains. Half way along the road we pulled over and I spotted another group of Great Bustards, 14 this time and slightly further away, but showing well in the good light. In the same area, there were also 6 Red Kites, a couple of Buzzards, Ravens and two Carrion Crows.

21st January.

The last day of the tour and after an early breakfast we said farewell to Roger and Hanny at the Casa Rosa, thanking them for their wonderful hospitality, and made our way to the saltmarshes behind Faro airport. Low tide enabled us to see many waders, including Ringed, Grey and Kentish Plovers, Red and Greenshanks, Black and Bar-tailed Godwits, Little and Cattle Egrets, White Storks, Turnstones, Whimbrels, Curlews, Common Sandpipers, Oystercatchers, Dunlins and Sanderlings. A Caspian Tern put in an appearance before Mary spotted two smaller terns flying over the marsh, which turned out to be Common Terns.

We had decided that the Pêra marshes held enough interest to be revisited, especially as we had had such a short time there in failing light on Friday. As soon as we parked beside the marsh, Dave was immediately on to a resting Caspian Tern, only 70 metres away. This was avidly photographed many times over a period of almost two hours. Other birds that were found included Avocets, Greater Flamingos, Golden Plovers plus the other 3 species seen earlier, Black-winged Stilts, Crested and Woodlarks, Black Redstarts, Meadow Pipits, Pintails, Gadwalls, Shovelers, Teal and a few Marsh Harriers.

As we were leaving Portugal, we stopped at the Sapal do Castro Marim nature reserve. Spoonbills were seen flying and feeding and a few Snipe were also seen, along with numerous other waders. A small flock of about 8 Stone Curlews were spotted on the drier areas of the marsh and a group of Red-crested Pochards brought the tour total up to 130 species seen.

It was now time to pack up the telescopes, binoculars and cameras, cross back into Spain and drive Dave, Mary, Ray and Lyn back to Sevilla airport to catch their flight back to the UK.

The highlights of the tour for me were the Allen´s Gallinule, seen so well at El Rocío on the 15th , the Alpine Accentors, showing even better on the 19th and the Great Bustards seen on the 20th.

John Butler - Donana Bird Tours. www.donanabirdtours.com