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Trip Report – Casa Rosa April 4th -11th 2007

Russell and Christine Fancourt

This was the first trip that my wife and I had made to Portugal – and our first self-led overseas birding expedition. If you are already familiar with Casa Rosa then you will know that we had made an excellent choice and that we too fell under the spell of the kind hospitality offered by Roger and Hanny. The trip was in every respect a wonderful break and exceeded all of our expectations. If you are yet to make this journey then rest assured it could not be made any easier or more enjoyable. Like so many previous guests we had stumbled across the Casa Rosa on the internet and just hoped that we had made a good choice. From the moment of our first tentative enquiry through to our arrival in Faro and the actual holiday itself – everything was made incredibly easy and straightforward. We opted to take all our meals in the Bistro as well as packed lunches so that we could concentrate on the birding. The food was wonderful although it is probably best to forget about waistlines!

We are not terrifically confident birders and probably miss half as many birds as we actually see – but we still managed to compile a list of 104 species from the following destinations:

Castro Marim -interesting wetland centre dominated by the bridge over the Guadiana into Spain. The drive up the track to the centre was productive with a variety of waders. We found Sector C in Moore et all very productive especially the outer track leading away from the saltworks off the EM. 125-6.

Fuzeta – saltpans just over the railway line gave good views of Little stint, Curlew sandpipers, Spotted Redshank and Kentish plovers etc

Environmental Education Centre of Marim - Natural Park of Ria Formosa at Olhau - off the EN 125 like everything else not well signposted but a real gem with a variety of habitats, a tidal mill as well as a centre for Portuguese water dogs. They sell a good map at the main entrance "Discover the Birds of Ria Formosa (West)" which was useful at the next site.

Quinta Do Lago - very posh housing and hotels dedicated to the world of golf. Car park cost 7 euros! Good for purple swamp hen and the usual waders. Not sufficient time to do this site justice.

Faro Airport and Ludo – footpaths busy with locals and tourists on Easter Sunday but produced variety of waders and Caspian Tern and probably some interesting warblers if we could have been a bit quicker on identification.

Vilamoura – Parque Ambiental - 6 km nature trail + 2 hides - our first view of purple heron and was that a mute swan on one of the golf course lakes? Brief glimpse said it was, but later research in the books indicates it to be out of its normal range. Maybe nobody told the swan?

Sagres and Cabo de Sao Vicente – this is a long car journey to the "end of the world " but worthwhile for the coastal scenery, the fishing harbour at Sagres and the fort at Ponta de Sagres complete with cliff top fishermen who seem on the whole to manage balancing on narrow ledges without throwing themselves over the edge. Good for Black redstarts, Blue rock thrush, Peregrine falcon, and black-eared wheatear etc…

Castro Verde Plains – we managed two successful trips up to "bustard country". The first via the N2 – a very winding, steep climb up to Castro Verde was a bit of a driving challenge but quite manageable – returned via Mertola and Castro Marim. The second we tried to follow the old N122 road northwards from Castro Marim. This offers some beautiful views but sadly the maps are not accurate and around the Lake Odeleitte you are eventually forced to join the IC 27 to finish the journey towards Mertola. We saw 2 Short Toed Eagles, 4 Booted Eagles, 10+ Montagu’s Harriers, 4 Black kites , 2 Marsh harriers as well as 18 + Great Bustards and 3 Little bustards. We dipped on the black bellied sand grouse. We concentrated on the area to the south of the N123 between Sao Marcos de Ataboeira and Mertola and were most successful when driving just a few hundred yards down various tracks in the areas labelled 10, 6 and 7 in the Gosney book.

Weather – bright and sunny most of the time – but not really warm enough for outdoor swimming –my one and only plunge in the pool early in the week was not to be repeated. Probably a bit chilly for this time of year but on the whole warm - a pullover was needed from time to time. Windscreen wipers used when driving through a couple of showers but on the whole dry.

Oustanding Birds of The Week

Like all married couples there is no agreement here either ! We loved the Blue Rock Thrush and the Choughs and the Flamingoes and the Montagu’s Harriers and everything else really. But, at the top of out list has to be the eagles – she preferred the Short Toed Eagle and I was pleased to get good views of both dark and light phase Booted Eagles. Then we both were totally taken by the Collared Pratincoles – they seemed to be almost tame , 20-30 birds perched on the ground only moving away when we got within 10 metres or so and then filling the air with their swift like flight pattern. But the bustards probably have to take first place – we first saw a single male Great Bustard in flight and thought initially that it was some sort of a big goose! (I told you we weren’t great birders) This was followed by the most spectacular and close up views of these birds we have ever had.

References

Finding Birds in Southern Portugal by Dave Gosney. – although very out of date this still gives a good indication of sites worth investigating.

A Birdwatchers Guide to Portugal and Madeira br C.C. moore, G.Elias & H.Costa. – a helpful supplement to the above.

Collins Algarve Holiday Map 1:100,00 – probably the best map we could find of the area but did not extend northwards enough to cover Castro Verde / Mertola etc.

AA Road Map Europe Spain & Portugal 1:800,000 – our only alternative to the Collins map and too large a scale tofind the sort of detailed information we needed around Castro Verde / Mertola.

Discover the Birds of Ria Formosa – map available from the Environmental Education Centre of Marim in Olhau

Notes for first-time visitors

  • Despite every effort we could not get hold of any accurate and up to date maps of the area.
  • Direction signs to specific locations away from the main routes such as the next town you are looking for are not as consistent as you would expect. You may see one – but at the next junction it has disappeared totally and you have to guess which way to go. Then you go wrong – what a surprise !
  • Because of this driving for the first time visitor away from the main routes does tend to be a bit hit and miss – we took wrong turnings every day. Just get used to it !
  • This may be a bit of a generalisation but we found that Portuguese drivers do tend to hang on to your back bumper a bit more closely than is comfortable. Again – get used to it
  • There seems to be a general right of access to walk wherever you need to go – a cheery wave of the binoculars to anyone seemed to be all that was required.
  • Unlike the UK nobody minded us driving along dirt tracks off the main roads
  • If I have raised anything that needs clarification or query please feel free to contact me at russell.fancourt@btinternet.com

Bird List April 4th -11th 2007

Little Grebe  Great Crested grebe  Gannet  Cormorant  Cattle Egret  Little Egret  Grey Heron  Purple Heron  White Stork  Flamingo  Mute Swan  Mallard Gadwall   Shoveler  Pochard  Red-Crested Pochard  Short-Toed Eagle Booted Eagle  Black Kite  Marsh Harrier  Montagu’s Harrier  Common Buzzard  Kestrel  Lesser Kestrel  Peregrine Falcon  Red-Legged Partridge  Moorhen  Coot  Purple Swamp-Hen  Great Bustard  Little Bustard  Avocet  Black-Winged Stilt  Stone Curlew  Collared Pratincole  Little Ringed Plover  Kentish Plover  Grey Plover  Golden plover  Sanderling  Turnstone  Dunlin  Curlew Sandpiper Little Stint  Common Sandpiper  Redshank  Spotted Redshank  Greenshank  Black-Tailed godwit  Whimbrel  Snipe  Black-Headed Gull  Yellow-Legged Gull Lesser Black-Backed Gull   Little Tern  Caspian Tern  Rock dove  Wood Pigeon  Collared Dove  Turtle Dove  Cuckoo  Swift  Alpine Swift   Hoopoe  Bee-Eater  Crested Skylark  Short-Toed lark  Barn Swallow  Red-Rumped Swallow  House Martin  Meadow Pipit  White Wagtail  Grey Wagtail  Black Redstart Northern Wheatear   Black-Eared Wheatear  Whinchat  Stonechat  Blue Rock Thrush  Blackbird  Sardinian Warbler  White Throat   Zitting Cisticola  Cetti’s Warbler  Great Tit  Woodchat Shrike   Great Grey Shrike  Azure-Winged Magpie  Common Magpie  Jay  Jackdaw  Chough  Carrion Crow  Raven Starling  House Sparrow  Spanish Sparrow  Linnet  Goldfinch  Greenfinch  Siskin  Serin  Corn Bunting  Common Waxbill

Russell Fancourt 12th April 2007


Also included on this page the birding list of Callyn Yorke and Merissa Mendez from Cailfornia who stay with us here at Casa Rosa from the first to the 7th of April 2007.

Bird Report, Southern Portugal, SW Spain. April 1-7, 2007. Callyn Yorke & Merissa Mendez (USA)

Great crested grebe (Podiceps cristatus) Ludo farm (Faro)

Little grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) Castro Marim; Ludo

Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) widespread

Cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis) Castro Marim

Little egret (Egretta garzetta) widespread

Grey heron (Ardea cinerea) widespread

White stork (Ciconia ciconia) widespread

Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia) Castro Marim; Olhao

Greater flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) Castro Marim

Greylag goose (Anser anser) SW Spain

Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) Castro Marim

Wigeon (Anas penelope) Castro Marim

Mallard (Anasplatyrhynchos) widespread

Gadwall (Anas strepera) Castro Marim; Ludo

Red-crested pochard (Netta rufina) Ludo

Black kite (Milvus migrans) Alentejo

Black vulture (Aegypius monachus) SW Spain

Griffon vulture ( Gyps fulvus) SW Spain

Montagu's Harrier (Circus pygargus) Alentejo

Hen harrier (circus cyaneus) SW Spain

(Circus cyaneus)

SW Spain

Marsh Harrier (

Circus aeruginosus) Castro Marim

Buzzard (Buteo buteo) Barrancos

Booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) Castro Marim

Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) Castro Marim; Ludo

Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) widespread

Lesser kestrel (Falco naumanni) Cabo Sao Vicente

Peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) Cabo Sao Vicente

Red-legged partridge (Alectoris rufa) widespread

Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) Castro Marim; Ludo

Coot (Fulica atra) widespread

Purple gallinule (Porphyrio porphyrio) Ludo

Stone curlew ( Burhinus oedicnemus) Castro Marim

Black-winged stilt (Himantopus himantopus) widespread

Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) Castro Marim; Faro

Collared pratincole (Glareola pratincola) Castro Marim

Ringed plover (Charadrius hiaticula) Faro

Kentish plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) widespread

Grey plover (Pluvialis squatarola) Castro Marim; Faro; Olhao

Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) widespread

Dunlin (Calidris alpina) Castro Marim; Faro

Little stint (Calidris minuta) Castro Marim; Faro

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) Faro

Black-tailed godwit (Limosa limosa) Castro Marim

Bar-tailed godwit (Limosa lapponica) Castro Marim

Redshank (Tringa totanus) Castro Marim; Olhao

Spotted redshank (Tringa erythropus) Castro Marim

Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) Castro Marim; Olhao

Common sandpiper (Tringa hypoleucos) Castro Marim; Olhao

Black-headed gull (Larus ridibundus) Castro marim

Yellow-legged gull (Larus cachinnans) widespread

Lesser black-backed gull (Larus fuscus) widespread

Sandwich tern (Sterna sandvicensis) Olhao

Rock dove (Columba livia) widespread

Collared dove (Streptopelia decaocto) widespread

Barn Owl (Tyto alba) Casa Rosa (Moncarapacho)

Little owl (Athene noctua) Sagres

Alpine swift (Apus melba) Cabo Sao Vicente

Pallid swift (Apus pallidus) Castro Marim; Olhao

Swift (Apus apus) widespread

Bee eater (Merops apiaster) Castro marim; Casa Rosa; Ludo

Hoopoe (Upupa epops) widespread

Great spotted woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) Barrancos

Crested lark (Galerida cristata) widespread

Swallow (Hirundo rustica) widespread

House martin (Delichon urbica) widespread

Yellow wagtail (Motacilla flava) Castro Marim; Olhao

Black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) Lisboa

Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) widespread

Blackbird (Turdus merula) widespread

Fan-tailed warbler (Cisticola juncidis) widespread

Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) widespread

Sardinian warbler (Sylvia melanocephala) widespread

Blue tit (Parus caeruleus) Casa Rosa

Great tit (Parus major) Ludo

Great grey shrike (Lanius excubitor) Castro Marim

Woodchat shrike (Lanius senator) Casa Rosa

Spotless starling (Sturnus unicolor) widespread

Jay (Garrulus glandarius) Alentejo

Magpie (Pica pica) Castro Marim; Olhao

Azure-winged magpie (Cyanopica cyana) widespread

Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax) Cabo Sao Vicente

Jackdaw (Corvus monedula) Cabo Sao Vicente

House sparrow (Passer domesticus) widespread

Spanish sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis) Alentejo

Serin (Serinus serinus) Casa Rosa

Greenfinch Carduelis chloris) widespread

Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) widespread

Linnet (Carduelis cannabina) Burgau

Corn bunting (Miliaria calandra) widespread

Total 89 species; 20 Life birds